Main Question: I just purchased a 94 F150 with 214k on it. So far it looks to be working quite well. It looks like the pre-owner was pretty good in routine overhaul. I asked myself, with good servicing, how long a 351w would take before a modification is required. I don’t know what the oil economy is yet, but I don’t see any smoke and the engines seem to be running well.
I bought it in November 02 with 123,263 miles on it. Super clean truck. It was a truck of a pair of snowy birds that brought it to the AZ every winter from here to West Washington. I do not want to say that I have a Beat truck, but I drive it very hard. This is my only installation other than my 62 Falcon S / W, but this is a summer car. I invest an average of 20 thousand a year on this, and that’s all in Kitsap County, where I live. I now have 223017 on it. I made / used 3 sets of tires, 3 sets of front brakes, ready-made ball bearings, bearings, U-joints, shock absorbers 2 times and the usual setup. I was just wondering how many 5.8 miles usually go from them. I cant get the new 08 Super Duty, as my father just got! Oil flows from it through the rear main seal and water flows from somewhere. I can not find it. Neither head gasket nor cracked head. No water in oil. I just smell when it works.
I believe that you are following a harsh maintenance manual.
All I can recommend is watch and listen. When the oil consumption increases significantly (say, a couple of hundred miles or less per quart) or it starts to make knocking or popping noises that sound deep in the block, and not just the roar of the lift, the end is somewhere in sight. Or it can just shit and throw a wand or the like without warning – who knows?
As for your water issue – the heater core is a sneaky lever. It is usually released by an anti-icer covering the windows with mucous glycol fog / film.
Most of the 100K that I put on this is all in urban miles. I drive a maximum of 16 miles per day on the freeway. The rest are all in the city. Water leaked for about 3 months. There simply wasnt much time to fix this, and the demo derby season will end this month, I will have time. It does not spray water through a defrost or heater. Flows out from the firewall. Last night I was told that in this case there is a small drain hose in the heater box to drain the water. So I guess I need a heater soon.
Not sure how much was changed during the update of your era 92-96 compared to my generation 87-91.
Mine is so easy, it’s almost a joy to pull out the glove box, the heater cover is right there. Spend as much time rounding the tool as you need to replace the core – if the hoses are easy to detach.
A word of wisdom – do not buy a cheap core (~ $ 27). Go ahead and get a good one (~ $ 60). Prices may have risen due to my last substitution for recent spikes in metal prices, but you get the point.
The reason is that I noticed that about 1/3 of the area was closed in a cheap core, so I really had to look to see this. The heater did not work just as well, and more importantly, the defrost did not work. Fortunately (?), This core lasted only a couple of years.
I thought that the drain line is intended for condensation of the coil of the air conditioner evaporator, but I believe that, if everything is designed correctly, the drain of this line can also go beyond this line. urban miles. I drive a maximum of 16 miles per day on the freeway. The rest are all in the city. Water leaked for about 3 months. So that there is not much time, so that the season is completed this month, I will have time. It does not spray water through a defrost or heater. Flows out from the firewall. Last night I was told that there was a small drain hose in the box. So I guess I’ll need a heater soon.
So I’m in love with the sound of a Corsa. Not so in love with the price for $ 890 (the cheapest that I could find literally anywhere). There is a discount of $ 50 right now, the total cost of which is $ 840, if I install it myself.
The Flowmaster American Thunder seems to sound pretty good, but I don’t want any drones. But for $ 700, I would have thought of SIDO Roush or magnaflow before the release of tires. Then, for $ 700, I better spend an extra $ 140 and get a corso.
There is a one-way Solo outlet, but it is a 4 “exhaust, and I think it is much more than you need to breathe this 5.0, I personally think that 3” is more than enough until you enter forced induction. Their binary system is in order, but again in the price range where it does not make sense.
Thus, Flowmaster Force II, Gibson, MBRP, Volant, and aFe remain.
I do not plan to remove the resonator if the kit does not require this. I would prefer that there was no this disgusting gloomy sound. I don’t care about aluminum or stainless steel, if I get an aluminized system, I just paint it before it gets covered with any kind of high temperature coating.
Force II seems too quiet to me. The price is good at $ 450-500, but it seems too far from the tamed side.
Gibsons systems did not blow me up from the YouTube research I was doing. The sound is creaky and not strong enough.
MBRP I could not form a real firm opinion about. I saw the 2011 video 5.0 and it reminded me of Gibson’s suggestions.
Volant sounds pretty good, and the price is pretty good – $ 500, but it seems to be quiet too. It seems to be leading this time.
It seems that aFe does not have many 5.0 sound clips. I would look at their 3 “one-way system, the price is good – $ 545. Has anyone else put this version on 5.0?
I had previously replaced the factory muffler on my Ram cockpit with a 14 “magnetic flux muffler, and although it sounded awesome, there were 1,500 rpm on the track. I had a suspicion that this happened because the entire muffler and inlet / outlet were under the rear half of the cab, unlike the standard muffler, which was 12 inches longer, placing half the muffler and exits the cab and under the bed.
With the supercab, Im sure that the silencer will be behind the cockpit, and, I hope, should not buzz a lot.
I put Flowmaster American Thunder on my 15th and I like the sound. I think it sounds a little better after a week or two with him. One complaint I have is that the whole system is moving. I have double pipes right at the back, and I’m super **** that they are perfectly aligned and symmetrical … It was a problem to keep the tips in place, especially when driving on rough roads. I dont know much about welding these systems in place, but I think that will largely solve this?
I am stuck in the same position. There is a topic here that also talks about this. Those guys who talk about power transfer change with full exhaust. One of them is talking about turning on the resonator with the exhaust system of the secondary market again. Thus, the energy supply is returned to the warehouse, but still sounds good. Then another guy talks about welding MagnaFlow for sound. After I read these materials on this subject, my hands were in the air, what to do. We wish we could have a little better understanding of the handling of the exhaust systems. I was stuck on buying a tuner for the same reasons. I need details on how exactly the car responds in any conditions. Part gas (normal driving), half gas, full gas. Thanks in advance for your understanding.